Cusqueña New Year!

Nothing like bringing in the New Year with a big bowl of raw fish in an inland town in a foreign country.

With that being said, the ceviche here is amazing, and is a national delicacy (although generally in seaside cities like Lima). For those not in the know, ceviche is raw fish marinated in citrus for about 5 minutes before it is served, and while still being raw, it has the texture and taste of cooked fish, mixed with chilis, vinegar, salt, and herbs. I have the fortune of having a friend who is a chef at one of the most well known cevicherias in town, Olas Bravas (Brave Waves), and yes, it was delicious - spicy, salty, succulent - and no, I didn't get sick! WOooHooo!

I passed my New Year like the old lady that I am - asleep in my bed, but as one might expect I woke up at midnight to the sound of millions of fireworks. I ran to all the various windows and saw shooting starts surrounding all the hills and the sound of thousands of clapping hands (actually, that is what it sounded like, but it was just the sound of people lighting firecrackers for about 30 minutes echoeing in all the hills). Within about 15 minutes, I thought clouds were rolling in on this exceptionally clear night, only to discover that it was the smoke from so many fireworks for such a long period of time! My roommates reported that the main plaza was insane, even the police were shooting off hand-held fireworks, kids were aiming aimlessly, and everyone was calling relatives on their phones wishing a Happy New Year!! Unfortunately their relatives probably didn't realize that because of that phone call, lines were tied up for, what I imagine, the many people who got shot in the eyeball with a firecracker held by 2 year-olds and tried to call an ambulance. This morning, I dutifully got up at 7am to go to my project and spend my day with 37 little kids who don't understand what day it is, and I got to feed them an amazing lunch of smoked roasted turkey (I snuck a piece from a 4 year-old, shhh, don't tell), baked potatoes, apple pudding, and veggies. Yum. I wish I had an oven. All storekeepers, taxistas, and security guards were in an especially jovial mood this morning, and I expect they were all still very drunk. Within an hour, with barely a hello, I had four grown men ask me my stats: where are you from, how old are you, what is your name, are you single?

Mom, I am losing weight. I am sorry but it is happening. But honestly, I am eating all the time here! The food is amazing, how could I not? Besides normal healthy stuff, I even eat things like Panetone and butter and real hot chocolate, I even have a very mom-like lady at the farmer's market make me extra rich, thick milk and bread with a cream spread. I eat 3-course lunches, sandwiches with 5 different kinds of meat on them. I am trying here, if for nothing else, for the fact that I can't buy pants here in my length or size! Honestly though, I think it is the pilates three times a week. My abs burn, my legs cramp, and dang, it is a good feeling, plus I walk everywhere at 11,000 ft altitude, maybe that has something to do with it too.

I am happy to report to my Divas that, during my island trip the other week, I spent time with 6 New Zealanders, and three of them were wearing Icebreaker! I was wearing my Icebreaker at the time too, so we really bonded. It was beautiful.